The drunken mermaid

At our last stop, Favignama, for the first time ever, I found a bar with my name on it...

Then in Marsala, home of the famous aperitif and dessert wines, I found another: la sirena ubriaca : the drunken mermaid. Situated in via Garibaldi in the centro storica of Marsala, this lively bar serves wine without a menu- the very knowledgeable Angela was able to make the various members of the gang happy with her choice of wines, indeed she suggested a Nero D'Avola that both John and I enjoyed.  

Have a look at Angela in action

On the basis of her wine choices, we took her recommendation for a restaurant who could do with someone as friendly as Angela on their waiting staff. Our waitress at il mare colore del vino, who I suspect was also the owner, was quite fierce and not very flexible to the requests for this and not that by our vegetarian contingent. My bistecca in Marsala was delicious, though my salad was a let down. Great vegetables in Sicily, crap salads. Bizarre.

Tomorrow a Marsala tasting tour- but you'll have to read the next copy of indulge magazine out in September to find out about it! A piu tardi!

I'm in love....

With the prettiest place.... Salina, one of the Aeolian Islands. Lush landscapes, flowers everywhere, a well kept marina and a sweet walkway into the quaint village which houses boutiques with silk chiffon kaftans and individual items of clothing and unusual bags and jewellery, a salumeria, a stacked to the ceiling grocery store, butcher, baker and candlestick maker - ok, I lied, no candlestilck maker but there is a flip flop maker.
You choose your leather, have your soles sized, pick your buckle, and either a) let the man get on with his work and get an ice cream or b) stalk him with questions and take pictures of him at work. Either way it is just a 10 minute process - brilliant. Made me realise I really must get around to booking the shoe making course I have wanted to do for years, seeing as it has become impossible to find a cobbler who still honours the craft today.
If you come to find him, I suggest you test out your new hand made flip flops for a wander after dinner at Porto Bello restaurant. After a selection of antipasti, I had Scorpion fish with potatoes which I am not ashamed to say, I mopped up every last morsel with the fresh crusty bread. Washed down with a bottle of local Insolia by Hauner, this was a meal memory I will cherish.

I spoke too soon.....

And I guess it serves me right. I was showing off to a well versed foodie friend about having supper in Syracuse and I had what was probably one of the worst meals in my life. Most definitely in the bottom three.... Take a tip from me and don't go to The Terrace restaurant which overlooks the harbour. I know .... We were seduced by the view (having been at sea all day.... Ahem) but the food definitely turned us off, to the point that we didn't end up paying as it was inedible.

Black plates were the first no no, with our involtini of swordfish stuffed with the traditional but tasteless breadcrumbs, raisins and pine nut mix and covered with a white sauce which looked like vomit.

The salad was from a tin - I swear - on dead lettuce leaves that even a starving slug would not eat. Thank heaves for the wine, an Insolia, which managed to lift my language skills to express my disgust.

Today's lunch was a much better affair. Laden with bags from Stefanel and Trussardi and tickets in hand to the famous opera dei pupi our faith in tourist town restaurants were revitalised with a plate of antipasti and another of pasta at Sicilia in Tavola on via Cavour - and at just € 25 including a glass of wine, water and coffees, I think I may head back into town to visit my friend Max Mara!